on the beach with kentmere 100.

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5119 Kentmere 100 FM2 50E 24D Grayland396-EditI am not sure how to judge Kentmere 100. It worked fine and was easy to scan. This week I will try printing the negatives in a darkroom on fiber paper, but I do not think there will be a problem. I will have to try some Delta 100 and see how it compares.  5119 XE Grayland 002 (2)-Edit5119 Kentmere 100 FM2 50E 24D Grayland381-Edit

I shot these images at Grayland, Washington, using my Nikon FM2. I used two lenses, the Nikon 50mm 1.8 Series E Lens, and the Nikon 24mm 2.8D Lens. I developed the film in Kodak D-76(1:1) for 11 minutes, 15 seconds, @20C.

5119 Kentmere 100 FM2 50E 24D Grayland386-Edit5119 Kentmere 100 FM2 50E 24D Grayland397-Edit


4 Replies to “on the beach with kentmere 100.”

  1. I am just not that talented when it comes to evaluating films. Controlling highlights is easier if you shoot sheet film but I guess longer development times would protect or at least let the highlights fully develop. I plan on shooting the 400 version at 200 and develop at 400. That should tell me something. When not shooting street I shoot both 400TX and HP5+ at 200 and develop at 400. I get much better negatives, at least that is what my teacher tells me.


  2. I like these pictures.
    I’m no authority on critiquing negatives but I like the scans I get with the K100 developed along the lines of what you’re using. I’ve used K400 aT 400 and like that but it is grainier; it’s major advantage over TriX is that it dries flat and so I get sharper scans, even if the dynamic range doesn’t seem to be as wide as TriX. I’ve shot K400 at 100 – could look up development times but it’s somewhere on the order of 17 minutes. For the bother I prefer K100.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. I am just curious to see how it is at 200. At school, they assigned me that speed because of how my negatives at 400 looked. I will probably develop the film in HC-110 for the same time as I developed my earlier roll of Kentmere 400.


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