The vast majority of my work is done with manual focus. I leave the lens at around 4 or 5 feet on the focus ring and then adjust as I take the shot. It is a very intuitive procedure and most of the time I have confidence in the focus I shot the image at. I have been having some difficulty focusing and it may be that my eyes are at fault. I was born in 1951 and I do wear glasses. I have the most trouble with Voigtlander lenses. The focus ring has lots of resistance and I am late at times acquiring the focus. Now I am having a bit of trouble with the manual focus Nikons. Last week at Glazer’s camera in Seattle, I saw a 50mm 1.8 AF lens. This is a Pre D lens and was made in Japan from 1986-2001. The focus ring is very loose and I wanted to see if it would more effective for my work. It can work on most of my manual Nikon Cameras. The lens costs me $50. Before I could use it on the street I took it on a 2-day trip up Highway 3 to Bremerton and then headed west to Highway 101 back to my home in Olympia. I had the lens on my Nikon FM3a loaded with Ilford Pan F Plus. I developed the film in HC-110(1:31) for 4 minutes @20C.
Steven Lawrence Pictures 
This is a great lens for the price, had one for years. Added ‘Rabbits ears’ at the f5.6 marks and use with my F & F2sb, works very well.
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I have the 24 and 35 D Lenses so I was acquainted with how well the lenses worked. The store was happy to get rid of the lens and I was happy to buy it.
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It was/is a very underrated lens, along with some of the Nikkor ‘E’ lenses.
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I use this lens on an FM for hiking trips – a lightweight and compact kit. While the lens feels cheap and loose (compared to the older Nikon 50mm primes I have) , any failures to deliver a sharp image are mine, not the lens’.
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It is also the best-looking autofocus lens that I can put on my Nikon Df.
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Seems like a good combination all around. It is often said that development times less than five minutes are inadvisable, but your results look just fine in regard to the tonal range. I have gone recently to using a kind of generic replacement for HC110 called LegacyPro L110 from Freestyle. It seems the same in terms of results and is even a little easier to use as it is less viscous than the Kodak product.
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The new HC-110 is also less viscous than the original. As far as development times go I would like to see a consistent pattern to the times required to develop 400TX. Kodak maintains that when you push the film 1 stop you do not need to develop differently.
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I wonder what makes me see medium format images here. Maybe their subject matters… It is also possible that you were in a different mood while shooting and trying to understand the lens better. A contemplative mood…
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When I shoot the street the time between the subject and the shot is very small whereas here I am thinking a bit more about what I am capturing.
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Pretty much any of the Nikon 50 f/1.8 lenses are excellent optics. I have tried a couple different f/1.4 Nikkors and have never liked the results as much as those from the f1.8 lenses.
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